Vanua Levu – Labasa Region


Labasa is a whole different world to Savusavu.

Sugar cane has long been the staple income for Vanua Levu residents for generations with large numbers of cane growers residing in Labasa.

Fewer tourists reach Vanua Levu due in part to its proximity to the mainland where the main tourism belts of the Coral Coast, Mananucas and Yasawas are located. But the tourists who frequent this part of Fiji are a very different breed.

They are naturalists, divers, adventurers and alternative lifestyle types who shy away from the more busy and hectic areas.

If you arrive by ferry you will tie up at Nabouwalu which is the site of a government station. Accommodation is provided by a small guesthouse with three stores selling groceries nearby. There is also a Government Resthouse but be sure to book well ahead due to limited space.

Drive along the road (141kms) to Savusavu and if you wish to go further you will run into the Mt Kasi Goldmine.

 

Its then on to Labasa passing Fijian villages, cane fields and rice paddies. Sandalwood trading was brisk around here in the old days but stocks have long been depleted from the easily accessible areas.

 

This market is a hive of activity in most Fijian towns and cities and Labasa is no exception

 

Labasa is a sugar town and owes its existence to that industry. Over the years sugar production in this area has lessened due to the expiry of land leases resulting in cane farmers being dispossessed of land they have tilled for generations.

The nightlife at Labasa is fairly restricted but if you are an outgoing individual you will find it easy to source good places to eat and friends to have a beer with.

The Labasa Sugar Mill opened in 1894 and is still in full flight today. If you arrive in the cane harvesting season you will likely see row upon row of trucks, tractors and trains waiting to offload cane. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 Things to do in Labasa

 

A phenomenon at the Snake Temple is a large rock shaped like a cobra that supposedly keeps growing. Another phenomenon is Floating Island located in a circular lake, a small islet that apparently has no roots.


To arrive at Snake Temple is somewhat of an experience.  After travelling over ruts and potholes passing sugarcane, goats, cattle and bullocks grazing along the roadside, rice paddies and cassava patches you walk up to your ankles in some sort of black mud and arrive at the Chief’s house to hear the story of Snake Temple.

 

Legend of the Floating Islands
“In the old days, our ancestorsfished in the sea from three floating islands the size of large houses. Over two hundred years ago, tribes from across the mountains wanted two islands for themselves, but no agreement was reached so they blocked the channel and left only one floating island for us. Now, when our priest chants, it’ll move from place-to-place…eventually stopping along the shore…”

 

The brightly colored red, blue and yellow Snake Temple has three stories. Inside is an offering of brightly colored flowers and tinsel garlands drape over a black basalt stone that resembles a cobra poised to strike. The devotees circle the cobra-rock three times lighting incense sticks and drizzling coconut milk and turmeric powder intended as gifts for the snake God.

Labasa has guest houses, a couple of hotels and an inn. Restaurants are not plentiful and are a combination of Chinese and Indian fare.

Indian firewalking takes place once a year between June and October at Agnimela Mandir, the Firewalker’s Temple at Vunivau northeast of Labasa.

 

 Vanua Levu is a mixture of everything that is Fiji and Fijian. A microcosm of Fiji displaying all that is appealing, interesting and unique about the Fiji Islands.

 

 

 

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